Interior continues

In a effort to control road noise a soundproofing material was added. This is a light weight flexible layer which has a peel and stick backing. It should help maintain moderate temperatures in the cab as well..

The speedometer cable has been rerouted along the edge of the firewall

The carpet underlay goes down next .

The shifter housing will be accessible without removing the whole tunnel carpet / underlay .

Dashboard

There were two different styles of metal dashboards (apart from coupe, roaster & left and right hand drive differences) used on MGAs. The standard used on much of the production run and the Twin Cam & MKII version. The later version moved the signal light indicator inward and higher on the dash, and no longer sat in a depression in the dash.  These dashes were covered in a "leather cloth" material and chrome trim was also added along the bottom of the dash as well as a chrome piece surrounding the speaker grill in the center of the dash. The radio blanking plate also used a chrome trim  and was cover in the same "leather cloth" for MKII or painted body for standard dashes. The crinkle black versions were found on MGB cars.

I received 2 dashboards with my car. The original dash had an extra hole for an amp gauge cut into it and a MKII dash complete with chrome bits. The hole in the original dash was repairable but the dash was twisted and bent and would have need a lot of work to get it presentable. The MKII dash was in great shape other than the signal light indicator in the wrong position.

 I decided to use the MKII dash, Hmmm...... easy enough to convert to the older style. I welded a patch over the old hole, but before the new hole could be drilled at the new location, a depression had to be pressed in the metal. On the older dashboards the  light sits in a depression similar to the ones for the switches. Using the other dash for comparison I selected two sockets to replicate the new depression. I placed the larger socket behind the dash and the smaller one in front and along with heat and a vise and presto. I am very happy with the results.

I did however decided to keep all the chrome bits from the later dash.

 The speedometer will need to be sent out for calibration but all the other instruments are in working order. I used WD40 as a cleaner for the face plates, it seemed to remove any build up crud without removing and paint. All the instruments got new chrome trim and rubber gaskets.

The rev counter only needed a quick cleaning and oiling to be set right. The original dual gauge I received with the car did not register full temperature, I found a used one on Ebay, new or even rebuilding are available options. The fuel gauge was not working and turned out to be quite a task to get working, in the end  I used components of two fuel gauges to manufacture one functioning unit. 

The pneumatic switch for the signal lights needed attention as well. These switches are kinda cool once you find out how the work. When you flip the lever to left or right it moves a plunger inside a cylinder creating a vacuum which holds the lever in place until you either flip it back to center (off) or a few seconds go by.  The time can be adjusted using a set screw at the back of the unit. I set mine for 15 seconds.  A fairly common problem with these switches is the leather gasket on the plunger unit gets dried up and allows air to get by, no vacuum can be created. A little grease applied to mine and it worked fine. This also gave me the chance to check the turn signal relay, which to my relief, performed nicely.
All the other switches, including the light switch, panel rheostat and horn push all worked fine. I added an screen washer pump which was an option for MGAs. The pump is set back in the dash so the knob can be inline with the other knobs. An optional lighter could also be placed in this hole.

You can see I still need a choke cable.