I've run into a couple of snags while getting things together before starting the engine. Though I bench tested the starter motor and it ran fine, when I attempted to turn the engine over the starter gave up after a couple of revolutions. A new one is on its way. The radiator is also no good which does not surprise me, as it is the original rad complete with brass info plate, where when and who built it as well as serial number ( I guess in case it ever gets stolen ;-). The rad is being re cored with a more modern core which should allow for more efficient cooling. I am only to glad to assure these important components are in good shape. The thermostat housing also turned out to be the wrong one, having a different angle on the outlet tube then the MGA version. By the end of next week I should be close to starting the engine for the initial run in.
In the mean time :
The exhaust pipe has been wrapped in fiberglass jacket. This should help maintain a cooler cabin temperature.
Floorboards have been installed.
Test fitting
7 layer plywood was used to renew the floorboards, as original 3/8" has sufficient strength. Considering that every MGA is unique, the hole locations need to be "customized" for each car. The pieces were placed in position and marked from the bottom for drilling.
My understanding is that some parts of the original floorboards were installed with a felt gaskets. Instead I used a paint able mastic which should stay flexible and maintain a good seal. Two liberal coats of Minwax stain and polyurethane in one were used on the wood and should last a good long time.
The larger cable protruding from the driveshaft tunnel is the speedometer cable (the original ran inside the tunnel). The green wire comes off the reverse light switch on the new gear box. I will use this for the ground connection for the light. Original MGAs did not have a reverse light.
New wiring loop being installed.
I've temporarily installed the fuel tank for the start up. To ease in the body installation, the tank will be removed again.
The wiring harness has been installed as original, here it's snuggled in with the battery cable, fuel line and brake line using bend over tabs and P clips. Although I have original P clips, I opted to go with new rubber jacketed style, these along with stainless screws and nuts I hope, will provide a little more protection against rust and corrosion.
A battery disconnect switch is a must for MGAs since there are not much in the way of security. A turn of a little plastic key will disconnect the Neg pole of the battery from the frame. You can also see in the photo, the seat belt anchoring points, bolted to the tunnel and welded to the frame. These are as original when the last few MGAs had them installed.
And the battery fits well in its new mount complete with new 1/0 welding cable for the cables to ensure no voltage loss at the starter. {I've changed the crappy battery clamps seen here to the soldered on version}
This is the original fuel pump that I received with the car, it has been completely rebuilt and converted to electronic and neg ground. No points to worry about.
Before attaching the driveshaft I replace the pinion seal, the old one looked OK, but at least now I know it's good.
The carburetors have been rebuild including re-bushing the throttle shafts. I polished up the dash pots as well as the intake manifold. The intake manifold is supposed to be engine colour but I don't like the look of flaking paint on aluminum.
After a lot of head scratching and internet searching I think I've got the linkage set up properly. I imagine there will be a lot of adjusting once I get the engine running.
Rather then get new levers for the linkage, I rebushed the pivot holes using copper tubing and soldered them in place and drilled out to proper diameter. No more slop in the linkage.
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