It's ALIVE!

 .

After getting the radiator back (which turned out great), and installing it along with a proper thermostat housing, all systems were go for the initial start up.

Turning over the engine with the new starter motor for 30 or 40 seconds produced a good oil pressure...it was time for the real thing. Connecting the ignition and fuel pump to the battery, the fuel pump began ticking away until the float bowls filled. I held the choke with one hand and pulled the starter with the other. After a couple of revolutions the engine roared to life. Yahoo! No clunks or weird noises just a little water leak from the heater valve gasket. Wow a 50-year old engine roaring back to life...a great feeling!

Surprisingly the fiberglass exhaust wrap smoked quite a bit, but the only real problem was the idle. I couldn't get the idle below 2500rpm and after a couple of minutes I shut the engine off. Although the fast idle didn't wipe the smile off my face, I did want to get the problem solved before continuing with initial break-in.

Considering I rebuilt the carbs. myself I figured the problem lay with them. Checking the internet for possible causing of fast idle and S.U. carbs., the solution seemed to be with the throttle discs. The throttle discs need to be fully closed when at rest. The discs themselves are even beveled slightly so the disc can seal better in the venturi . I checked my discs and found them both open slightly and one disc was installed with the bevel the wrong way. I had drilled the holes in the new throttle shafts (for the idle stops) slightly off where they should have been. I filled in the holes with easy weld and redrilled the holes in the proper position. Now, holding the venturi up to the light with the disc closed showed them both fully closed. I reinstalled the carbs. and double checked to be sure the jets were centered, nice solid clunk when the damper piston is released.

The next day I tried again. The engine started right up and idled down to 1200 with the choke on, good. Now just wait till it gets to operating temperature and set the idle and timing. After a couple of minutes all is well the engine is running fine, with good oil pressure and the temp is rising slowly. Then, the engine dies, turns over but won't start. After checking all electrical connections I check the float bowls and they are dry. Then I realize there is no noise from the fuel pump. The fuel pump has died... after 10minute a newly rebuilt fuel pump is done...$#%@!

Oh well I guess better now then literally down the road.

I sent an email off to the fuel pump re builder guy and he says he'll make it right, so off to the post office I go.

Although I didn't get a chance to set up the engine , I am happy with the initial engine start. One major step closer to getting back on the road.

Here's a video after getting the fuel pump and Carbs worked out:

Floorboards & Chasis routing

I've run into a couple of snags while getting things together before starting the engine. Though I bench tested the starter motor and it ran fine, when I attempted to turn the engine over the starter gave up after a couple of revolutions. A new one is on its way. The radiator is also no good which does not surprise me, as it is the original rad complete with brass info plate, where when and who built it as well as serial number ( I guess in case it ever gets stolen ;-). The rad is being re cored  with a more modern core which should allow for more efficient cooling. I am only to glad to assure these important components are in good shape. The thermostat housing also turned out to be the wrong one, having a different angle on the outlet tube then the MGA version.  By the end of next week I should be close to starting the engine for the initial run in.

In the mean time :
The exhaust pipe has been  wrapped in fiberglass jacket. This should help maintain a cooler cabin temperature.

Floorboards have been installed.

Test fitting

7 layer plywood was used to renew the floorboards, as original 3/8" has sufficient strength. Considering that every MGA is unique, the hole locations need to be "customized" for each car. The pieces were placed in position and marked from the bottom for drilling.

My understanding is that some parts of the original floorboards were installed with a felt gaskets.  Instead I used a paint able mastic which should stay flexible and maintain a good seal. Two liberal coats of  Minwax stain and polyurethane in one were used on the wood and should last a good long time.

The larger cable protruding from the driveshaft tunnel is the speedometer cable (the original ran inside the tunnel). The green wire comes off the reverse light switch on the new gear box. I will use this for the ground connection for the light. Original MGAs did not have a reverse light.

 

New wiring loop being installed.

I've  temporarily  installed the fuel tank for the start up. To ease in the body installation, the tank will be removed again. 

The wiring harness has been installed as original, here it's snuggled in with the battery cable, fuel line and brake line using bend over tabs and P clips. Although I have original P clips, I opted to go with new rubber jacketed style, these along with stainless screws and nuts I hope, will provide a little more protection against rust and corrosion.

A battery disconnect switch is a must for MGAs since there are not much in the way of security. A turn of a little plastic key will disconnect the Neg pole of the battery from the frame. You can also see in the photo, the seat belt anchoring points, bolted to the tunnel and welded to the frame. These are as original when the last few MGAs had them installed.

And the battery fits well in its new mount complete with new 1/0 welding cable for the cables to ensure no voltage loss at the starter. {I've changed the crappy battery clamps seen here to the soldered on version}

This is the original fuel pump that I received with the car, it has been completely rebuilt and converted to electronic and neg ground. No points to worry about.
Before attaching the driveshaft I replace the pinion seal, the old one looked OK, but at least now I know it's good.


The carburetors have been rebuild including re-bushing the throttle shafts. I polished up the dash pots as well as the intake manifold. The intake manifold is supposed to be engine colour but I don't like the look of flaking paint on aluminum.

After a lot of head scratching and internet searching I think I've got the linkage set up properly. I imagine there will be a lot of adjusting once I get the engine running.
Rather then get new levers for the linkage, I rebushed the pivot holes using copper tubing and soldered them in place and drilled out to proper diameter. No more slop in the linkage.